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Costumed spectators and all marchers must dress in period costume for the 100th Anniversary Re-enactment of the 1908 Suffrage Parade in Boone, IA, and will be responsible for their own costumes. This listing may serve as a guide and provide you with resources and to save you time assembling your costume, although it is weighted for central Iowa. This listing is by no means complete and you may find additional resources in your own locality that are not listed here. If you find resources that are worth sharing with others, please notify the web-master so that we can update this listing.
The resources below are divided into: (watch for updates to the sections below.)
Facinating reading & thorough instructions can be found in this 1907 book, now online:
General Description
The style of the period was Edwardian. Spectators and marchers must all be wearing hats (that was a closely adhered to fashion rule of the time.) Colors for all costumes must be “winter” colors – no spring or summer clothing. Remember, this was a late October event and both the fashion rules of the time as well as weather required dressing warmly and in practical colors. Women’s dresses all reached the ground – no ankles showing. Waists were accented, depending on outer clothing. Shoes must be dark and preferably leather.
When putting together your costume, consider the possibility of getting different pieces from different sources, including renting some, making others, and even buying pieces, also. Remember that Halloween follows shortly and may affect availability, so best to act early to reserve your costume if you rent.
Photos illustrating the dress of the time
Below are pictures of the parade showing excellent views of the actual clothing
of the women and spectators. Highly recommended that you view the large version of this picture:
This link will take you to much clearer version of the above picture.
The photo immediately above shows more of the types of hats worn in 1908.
College graduating class, 1905
Notice the men wearing the high buttoned frock coats, vests with high rounded collars and exposed ties
Rental Possibilities
[Date considerations are in Bold]
Spencer Community Theater Shop (712-262-5765): E-mail address: Costumes@spencercommunitytheatre.com. They reportedly have a major theater shop, very reasonable and great to work with. Manager is Bonnie. Katrina was extremely helpful there. They have lots of “TOC” (turn of the century) costumes, for men and women, and some for children. TOC day dress would be $18-22, depending on how fancy; some more formal would be $24-28. $20-26 for women’s suits. They also have skirts and blouses which would be easier to fit. She pointed out that at that time of the year in a parade she’d suggest suits for men ($30) and women for warmth. Higher class men would probably wear suits (men could wear their own dress pants with a white collar shirt and black or brown shoes and just rent a jacket—cutaways may be $16—with black suspenders ($2.50). Lower class men might wear knickers with socks and a jacket, with a “newsboy hat”.
Men’s bowlers and top hats $5 - $8 depending on condition; women’s TOC hats for $5 for plainer narrower brim and $8 for wider, fancier hats. Hats- $3-8; shirts $6.50; vests $6.50; pants $6.50; skirts $8; knickers $6.50; dresses $18-22; formal dresses $24-28; womens 2pc $20-26; jackets $12-16; suits 22-26
They have lots of shoes, including high ankle ($4-$5), but most are rather petite.
They’d want us to send measurements, (see the size page on their website) and write a note if anyone wanted something special. They do all alterations (which is why they want measurements), and want to get the order 6-10 weeks ahead (i.e., early August to early September). She said it is important to order early, especially in the fall which is always very busy. They "do not require deposits on show rentals except Beauty and the Beast", but we need to return the rental contract before costumes are shipped out. Spencer does require a contract signed by an individual or organization that will accept responsibility for paying for damage, cleaning, etc.
They’d try to get the items to us 1-2 weeks before the event, and would want them back not more than a week later. The web-site is: www.spencercommunitytheatre.com/costumeshop.htm
Ibsen Costume Gallery (Omaha): 402-556-1400 or 800-456-6938 (dIbsen8075@aol.com). She said October is a crazy month, with Halloween and fall plays, and we’d need to get our order by mid Sept. They have quite a few in that era, but they could make what they don’t have, or get them elsewhere if they didn’t have enough. Prices for complete costumes are $45-$50 for a complete woman’s outfit (blouse, skirt, hat, sash, etc), and $50 for a complete men’s costume (including vest, hat, etc) Web-site is: http://ibsencostumes.com/ , tho probably best to contact them by phone or e-mail.
Drake University, Des Moines, costume designer is Josefa (Josie) Poppen (office, 271-3833 with voice mail after fall term begins on about 8-23, or the costume shop, 271-3121--there is never voice mail in the costume shop). They charge up to $20-25 per piece for not more than 3 weeks rental.
Simpson College, Indianola. Tiffany Rudd (961-1689) is the costume designer and they do rent. You will need to look at costumes after Aug. 26, as they will be locked up until end of summer because of the DM Opera season. Rental is $5 per piece (skirt, blouse, hat, shoes, etc); they have only smaller sizes
Stage West, Des Moines: Ron Lambert was very helpful, but they get most of their costumes other sources.
Iowa State University: Doris Nash, Fisher Theater costume shop, 515-294-8863 (djnash@iastate.edu ): They have 10-12 skirts and blouses she said would work, and 6-8 hats, but only a few coats (5-6). Not too many dark colors (theater likes colors). For men, maybe 8-10 suits, only a few hats (5or 6). We could either make an appointment to try on, or send measurements. Rental is $25 for complete costume for women, less for men.
Westdorf Costumes 641-636-2099 in Keota, near Iowa City (Lori and Jennie) (costumes@Iowatelecom.net). Very nice and helpful. They sent price ranges, said they have lots of options (in lots of different fabrics, qualities, etc., so it’s difficult to pin down a definite price). Accessories are additional charges, so for example the women’s outfit would not automatically include a hat or gloves, same for the men.. Roughly, women’s hats are an additional $10 and up, gloves are $2.50 and up, men’s hats are $5 and up, etc. Female costumes – circa 1908: $25-$75. Male costumes circa 1908 $35-$60.
Theatrical Shop in West DM 274-3611: Manager is Veronica. They have few women’s costumes from that era but some earlier ones (Gibson girl or simple Victorian) might work, she said; also some older men’s suits; they want people to try on (or at least have measurements) before renting. Most women’s costumes are in regular to petite sizes, but some Victorian are available in larger sizes too.
They don’t loan free of charge except to educational programs for the public schools. Cost $40-50 for first day, half of that for second day, 1/3 for 3rd day etc., but Victoria said since parade is in Boone they might be able to work something out. Cost for a dress would include a hat and maybe something else.
She pointed out October 29 is Halloween time, and also the season for the school’s fall plays.
We could walk in any time at least ½ hour before closing; they are open Mon-Thurs 9-8; Fri and Sat 9-5:30; Sunday noon-5.
Living History Farms: Laura (278-5286) is in charge of period clothing and what they have is not for the public.
Des Moines Playhouse: Angela Lampe (in charge of costumes), said they don’t have much from that era.
Grandview College, DM: Christie Wilkens (244-6101 home) is the costume person. She said they do not have clothing from that era—they haven’t done plays requiring those costumes.
Patterns & Resources for Making Your Own (or having made)
www.folkwear.com
www.sewontv.com
http://www.pastpatterns.com/
There may be individuals in the Central Iowa Sewing Guild who would be willing to sew costumes for those who want to have that done. Contact: Diane McCauley at diane_mccauley@msn.com She will also have contact information for the following individuals:
Sue Crawford of Construct Clothing in Des Moines.
Ginny McKeever is a Des Moines area costumer.
Hats: two books on how to make your own: “From the Neck Up”, published by Dover Publishing (DM Library has it), and “The Art of Millinery (1909)” published by R.L. Ship (not in WDM and DM libraries, and it’s no longer in print).
From Your Own Closet
Adapted from “Notes For Audience Volunteers” from the trial portion of Idaho Public Television's docudrama, Assassination: Idaho's Trial of the Century.
Notes For Women
Notes For Men
The original version of this was for re-enactors “to be a member of the audience for the trial portion of Idaho Public Television's docudrama, Assassination: Idaho's Trial of the Century.” – In 1907 .
We are costuming — in fairly authentic period costumes — a number of people who have asked to march in our re-enactment of the 1908 Women’s Suffrage Parade in Boone, Iowa. Our parade took place in October, rather than the summer event of the Idaho trial. We want to stay true to the period of 100 years ago and therefore ask you to use some of the tips below to create your costume from the things you already own. Note: Women’s Fashions and Tips are listed first because only women will be marching in the Parade. Men are welcome as “bystanders.”
Women's Fashions In Early 1900: Selected Notes For "Trial (Parade)"
The popular silhouette of the time was termed the "Grecian bend" and was "made up of the pigeon-breasted bosom, tiny corseted waist, and full, swayback hips" according to the Vintage Vixen website which gives a history of the period. We won't ask you to go anywhere near there!
Vintagevixen.com, gentlemansemporium.com, and sensibility.com outline many points of the history of women's fashions of the early 1900s. Some are condensed here. The common designs for daytime clothing for women were either a one- or two-piece shirtwaist dress, or a high-necked cotton blouse with boned collar and long sleeves worn with a heavy dark skirt. However, a 1907 advertisement for Arrow showed young women wearing a stiff, high collared men's shirt with a narrow tie. Hemlines were to the floor or just above for both day and night wear. Bustles were becoming a thing of the past. Tailor-made, waist length jackets and matching skirts were popular for working women. Women often added a shawl over their shoulders rather than a jacket, although a jacket would be more appropriate for late October.
Fabrics were natural fibers — linen, cotton, wool and silk. Linen would not have been worn in October. Colors were neutral with shades of white, brown, and black most common. Small figured or floral prints and even polka dots were popular in summer, but solids, plaids and stripes were more likely in fall. Fancy trim on women's clothing meant status, so excessive trim on shoulders, waist and lower half of the skirt was important. Popular trims were buttons, lace, or taffeta and velvet ribbon. Wide sashes often embellished the waist and tied in the back adding to the "swayback" look. Tucks were also considered fancy trim and were especially common in wide bands on the lower half of the skirt. The invention of the serger helped make the profusion of tucks possible.
Popular shoes were called oxfords and they laced or buttoned to the low ankle. The toes were pointed and the heels were probably 1 to 1 ½ inches. Kid gloves were in vogue as well as pure linen handkerchiefs and small, fine leather handbags.
Masses of wavy hair were fashionable but old pictures confirm that not everyone had such hair. If hair was long, it was swept up to the top of the head over horsehair "rats" and tied in a knot. In fact, pictures confirm that many women wore their hair behind their ears. Hats were almost mandatory for church or court, and certainly for being in public – a must for the Parade. They were most often huge and boxy in our pictures. Most were dark in color and were filled with flowers and ribbons or feathers.
Tips For Women On Putting Together A Costume From Your Closet
The Iowa women who attended Iowa Equal Suffrage Convention were citizens from all over the state. They might have been wives of bankers, lawyers, or real estate tycoons. Rowena Stevens’ husband was a prominent judge. But they also included shopkeepers and farmers. They would have worn their Sunday best daytime wear. So think modest and conservative, and you will fit right into the parade.
- Wear the longest, darkest, fullest, heaviest skirt you have.
- Wear black or dark knee socks or tights to add to the length of the skirt.
- Wear black or brown shoes. The ankle high, lace-up boots are easy to find in the thrift stores, if you care to do that, but certainly not necessary.
- Wear a high necked, long sleeved shirt or blouse — especially one with puffy shoulders unless you have a jacket or shawl. It does not have to be white (the cameras don't like too much white) but the color should be quite subdued. Quaint patterned fabric is great.
- Wear a short, dark jacket— buttons on sleeves are a plus — you can even add some extra buttons or ribbon.
- Add a ribbon bow to the neck or collar of your blouse, or a dickey, or use your grandmother's lace or crocheted collar to add to the height of the neck of the blouse.
- Add a wide sash to your waist and tie it in back if you wish - this could be a scarf or a strip of satin or taffeta.
- Bring a shawl if you don't have a jacket — crocheted or cloth or a dark colored scarf.
- Wear a big, wide brimmed hat, or a 10 to 14 inch bowl shaped one where the brim turns up. Straw was common for summer, but felt would be better for our period. Dark colors are best for the hat but the trim can be brilliant. Fill your hat with flowers, feathers, etc. Have fun with this!
- Bring a cloth hankie if you own one and want to use it.
- Bring a small handbag if you want to — they usually had a handle and were wider at the bottom than top.
- Wear above the wrist gloves if you have
- Bring a big black umbrella if rain is forecast.
- Pile your hair up under your hat if you have long hair. Keep it puffy so it shows around the sides of the hat. If you have short hair, keep some pieces out and depend on your hat to carry the look.
- Plan to layer down to something cool inside at the reception..
Notes On The Dress For Men In 1907 - 08
Before the 1900s most of the clothes for a family were made by mom. But "by 1900 tailored and tailor made suits were firmly established" according to the American Vintage Blues website.
Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History says that in the Naughty Nineties (1898) there was a determined attempt to replace frock coats (long to knee with round edge on front bottom of coat) with "sack coats" (shorter jackets to mid-thigh with square edge on front bottom of coat). The idea was that frock coats could be made acceptable in town by dressing them up — a three piece suit with a watch fob. Laver, in The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, says the "sack" coat soon replaced the frock coat for most informal and semi-formal occasions. The coat was a straight line coat with three buttons and was loose and boxy. The Blue Book of Men's Clothing 1907 called the sack coat the great American business coat — roomy and comfortable. Pants were short, often cuffed and creased. Vests buttoned high on the chest and often had rounded shawl collars. The suits were almost always dark — black, grey or brown — made of heavy worsted wool.
On the same day the Golden Rule Store advertised men's cotton shirts for 39 cents! They were often collarless, intended for use with detachable collars and cuffs so one wouldn't have to wash the shirt too often! According to Costume Manifesto, these detachable items were invented in 1827 by a housewife and made of cardboard. Making and selling them soon became a large cottage industry in the United States. The cardboard collars went out of style around in 1862 when George K. Snow invented machinery to laminate cardboard and cloth. Amazon Drygoods website gave us this history, and they still sell the authentic collars. The 1908 Sears and Roebuck Catalog advertised these fine collars for seven cents each.
The same issue of the catalog featured pure silk, two inch wide "Four in Hand" ties for 19 cents and Band Bows with hook and elastic fastener for 14 cents. Both were popular. Hair was generally short, tight to the head, often with a long part on the side. And beards and facial hair were in vogue! Hats varied. Many still wore the bowler, aptly named for its shape.
Tips For Men On Putting Together A Costume From Your Closet
The original parade was on Thursday, October 29. This was a work day. Men were on their lunch break. From photos we know that most men wore their business clothes, maybe not the "good" clothes they would wear to church. However, this was an event in town, during the week. We didn’t see farmers in the pictures. Most men wore black, brown or dark grey.
- Wear dark slacks or pants (not Levis) — with or without a crease or cuffs.
- Wear a white or off white shirt with a collar (not button down.)
- If you have a vest, wear it — with a collar, even better!
- Wear a regular tie in a bold pattern (not overly bright colors) or a bow tie.
- Wear your darkest, longest, winter suit jacket or sports coat. Wrinkled is fine.
- If you have suspenders, wear them.
- If you have a watch fob, wear it.
- Lace up leather shoes are good — ankle boots great — no tennis shoes.
- You will need a hat.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to e-mail us. We would appreciate knowing you are coming and, if we hear from you, we will be able to keep you up to date on the latest developments prior to October 29th.
Books on Costumes
A Dover reprint of a 1909 ladies’ fashion catalog:
www.amazon.com/Womens-Fashions-Early-1900s-Republication/dp/0486272761/ref=pd_sim_b_title_35
A listing of books
www.lib.colostate.edu/research/design/histcostume1900-1975.html
Hats: see the two books above on making your own.
Internet Resources for Descriptions of Clothing
You can Google “women’s fashions 1900-1910” for hundreds of photos, including of men.
Line drawings are at www.fashion-era.com/images/Silhouettes/
www.vintageblues.com/history_main.htm
www.vintagevictorian.com/Fashion.html
Limited, but still of some value, including men’s wear: www.ushist.com/wardrobe.htm
This page has some links that could be helpful:
www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1900links.htm
www.vintagevixen.com/
Has some men’s clothing & hats for sale. www.gentlemansemporium.com/index.php
A page with many links to more pages on 1901-11 (Edwardian era, technically, from Victoria’s death to Edward’s): www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1900links.htm
(some are outdated, inevitable with links—this woman has a huge website so can’t be expected to keep up—but a lot will be good—ones with scissors next to them are her own pages, she teaches costume history and design at U of Alaska—guess she has to do SOMETHING on long winter evenings!)
This might be a useful site for pictures — links to extant garments in museums worldwide, from Denmark to the Smithsonian to the V&A to Kyoto’s amazing collection…it’s a hodge podge of quality of photos, but arranged by date at least, so just click and take your luck; this is the page for 1900-19 (concentrate on say 1906-10): www.demodecouture.com/realvict/1900s.html
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